Kanakampatti- A village at the foothills of Palani Hills

                       A weekend at a village at the  foothills of Palani Hills.

     South India is well known for its innumerable temples spread all over the land. There are architectural gems, big ones and small intimate ones. The hill temples like Tirupathi, Palani and Idiki are very popular with the pilgrims who used to trek up, till recently when modern conveniences became available.  What is less known are the innumerable villages in the south where life goes on at its own pace and  contributes to the social and cultural ethos of the whole region. With the growth of  the metropolises and towns one forgets that the  soul of the country rests in its villages and rural areas. The way these villages have adapted to the modern world and have still retained their basic lives and values and culture is amazing.

    Palani hill is accessible from all big towns by road. The Palani temple is one of the most visited and rich temples in the south. Around are a number of villages situated off the main roads. Kanakanpatti is a village off the main road from Trichy.  Kanakanpatti is the  home village of Nat a very close friend of mine. We used to spend a night there on the way to Kodai and be entertained by him on the village life and customs of old days. Nat is a well known criminal lawyer and is free only when the courts close. A few common friends share an interest in nature and trekking and our spare time is spend in trekking in various parts of the country.

    In July 2005 Nat was free for a few days from court work and suggested that Bobjee and I go with him to Kanakanpatti between the 6th and 8th  to watch the village fair and Jallikattu, the famous bull taming sport. Nowadays Jallikattu is very much in the news with animal lovers trying to get it banned and the courts looking into it. In 2005 Jallikattu was at its height with no holds barred.

    When Nat arranges an outing it is done in great style. First is the vehicle used for the journey and the accompaniments loaded into it. Sumo made by Tatas is a squat square MPV built like an armoured vehicle. The technology used was from the 80s. But it was a very strong vehicle, which while lacking the drivability, speed and comfort of modern MPVs, was capable of crushing a Mercedes in head-on collisions. It was diesel powered and built  up enough speed over for Indian conditions even with an effective Air conditioner. Extra foam on the seats made up for the rather bumpy ride. It had enough space to carry our luggage and refreshments. Nat had fixed a DVD player and a bar in the car. The driver was trained to concentrate on driving at a safe steady speed of 80 kph and to keep his ear closed to all the conversations.

     It was in this vehicle, with dark glass windows for privacy, that we set out early morning on our trip to Kamakampatti. We took the highway to Trichy which was lined with new educational and engineering colleges.  After Tambaram it was a lovely four line highway. The prospect of being away from all the court and murder cases perked up Nat and he was in an expansive mood and soon started humming tamil movie songs. Bobjee was into the restoration of the Adayar estuary and Raja into his escapades  in England half a century ago. After a few hours travel we had a PIT STOP, as the  F1 enthus would call it. The engine was allowed to cool, the tyres checked, bladders relieved, legs stretched and refreshments both the liquid and solid consumed.

  Pit stop for refreshments

     We started off again with rocking motion of the van and the liberal intake of gin making Bobjee and me sleepy and nodding our heads. Nat was alert and having an eye on the driver to see that he did not over speed. Suddenly we heard Nat shout an order and the van slowed down and stopped in the middle of no where. Nat to driver -‘ Balu .Do you recognise the place?’ Balu looked pale and shaken- ‘ Yes sir’. Nat- ‘You may drive on’. Bobjee and I were mystified till Nat explained that the driver had pilfered drinks once, and as a punishment he left the driver in this place in the middle of the night to fend far himself. The driver had not forgotten the incident and the pilferage of drinks stopped. 

         Late in the afternoon we took the turning off the main Palani road and in a few minutes were in Kanakampatti with its freshly white washed houses and narrow lanes. We drove into Nat’s family house, which was over a century old. The old part of the house with its thick walls and low roofs were intact. To this had been added new rooms and modern conveniences like electricity connections and pumps and make shift garage for parking cars.

Kankampatti village

     

    

   

Nat's House

     

     We were given a royal welcome by Nat’s sister in law and her daughters and as soon we settled down we had a sumptuous tiffin and hot south Indian filter coffee  whose aroma revived us. The only person who was unhappy was Nat’s niece’s  dog who was tied up and lost the free run of the house. The news of Nat’s arrival spread and soon there was a lot of people to see him and chat with him. Nat was the village boy who carried the flag of Kamakampatti village to the outside world. His achievements as a top criminal lawyer who had handled some famous cases was well known. Even more Nat is known as the father of the girl who studied English at a top English University and teaches English to the Brits.

Front Mittam where you sat and met people

           

          Bobjee and I went out into the village while Nat held court. Even in the darkening dusk the freshly lime washed houses with their thick walls and tiled roofs stood out . Down the lane we came across  idols lit up under a tree and further down  a crowd in the front of a temple carrying offerings.

Dusk in the village

   

     

Idols under the tree

Offerings to the temple

   Night sky over the village    

     

   As the night was settling over the village we returned to the house to see Nat impatiently waiting for us with whisky and soda. Our tongues loosened by the relaxing atmosphere and the scotch,  we talked about life in the village. There was an annual festival on, the houses painted and redecorated for the occasion and people in their finery going to temples and the village maidan at night to watch drama and music. The music was on all the time and surprisingly what was played was not modern film music but old time immortal tamil film music classics like M.K.Thaigaraja Baghavathar’s  Manmathaleelayai Kanbalundo and Sollu pappa. This took us to our child hood days and made memorable by Nat’s accompanying humming and ganjira played on a steel plate and spoon. In the middle of this musical interlude, with sips of whisky and soda ,we were brought to attention by Natarajan’s niece announcing dinner and demanding our immediate presence. The only concession was that we could carry our drinks to the table. The dinner was delectable ,The local vegetables and meat had a flavour that is missing in the city. With the ladies present the conversation was on Jallikattu  for which every one was awaiting. This was an event for which the villagers lived for.

     Back to our room and after the night caps we slipped into deep slumber to wake up to the delectable smell of filter coffee. Later in the morning after a breakfast off doasis ,vadais and idlis  washed down with more coffee Nat sat down to see his friends and relatives who came to greet and  consult him. Bobjee and I wandered about seeing houses and exploring the old parts of Nat’s family house. Some of the pictures below gives an idea old things in the house and central courtyard. The courtyard  provides an air intake and circulation and in the rainy seasons acts as a water harvesting system.

 Central courtyard

Vessel for storing water

  

     Soon the loud speakers were on and we had M. K. Thiagaraja Baghavatar singing  his famous signature tune Manmatha Leelaiai Kanbal Undo in that famous nasal twang of his. This song was about Cupid’s heart throb and  sixty years ago had all the ladies in the south swooning away when M.K.T sang it. M.K.T was the foremost actor singer of the 40s of last century. Film songs were always in  Carnatic ragas and the voice was import in singing, the accompaniments muted unlike modern Tamil film music. The words were also important like the modern western rapping. In the film the Cupid’s hear throb was one of the bosomy lady actress and the camera man ( trained by Hollywood Dugan) invariably concentrated on the face and bosom of the actress. M.K.T had a magic innings which was cut short by a murder case. He was acquitted of the murder charge but his career never regained the former glory after that. He died  broken man and it was heart warming to see that he and his music were still enjoyed by the rural crowd. I explained all this to Bobjee . Coming from Teulgu Desam , he was at a loss to start with but soon was humming the tunes. M.K.T shifted over to the song  “Radhe unakku kovam Veradade”.  I explained to Bobjee  how in the song Krishna , after spending the evening away from Radha,  was telling her not to be angry. We started to enjoy the songs.

     Soon the lanes were crowded by damsels carrying brass pots with sprouted grains as offerings to the temple. It was never ending sight and beautiful beyond words. In spite of being at the foothills of Palani , Kanamkampatti was studded with a number of temples. The residents of the village maintained these temples with donations. They had their own non Brahmin priests who  seemed to give full satisfaction to their devotees.

 

    We visited AkkamaI Easwari temple, Palani  mootai swami gal temple and the Kalli Amman temple. The Kalli amman temple house the village deity and had six big horses in front. The horses are a fantastic sight and are visible in the Google satellite pictures of Kanakampatti. This is the biggest and most beautiful temple in the village  and is maintained from donations from all. The Tamil’s fascination with horses are a mystery in a land which does not breed horses. Is it due to Vijayangar rule? The Vijayanagar kings used to import horses through Goa and used them for wars. What ever reason the statues of horses are very popular in Tamil Nadu.

     The Kali Ammam temple in front of a big maidan is a beautiful and biggish temple. It had been painted up for the annual festival and was  gorgeous. The horses in front were spectacular. The pictures below barely do justice and you have to see it yourself to see the glory of temple with the horses in front.

   After wandering round we came back to see Nat just seeing off his visitors. During the chats with Nat we got an idea of the village and community life and social fabric of life here. Every one in the village appeared to be well off, involved in agriculture  or business. As common these days they had some youngsters abroad. The village was their home and there was no question of going else where. There was a very close communal bond and they contributed to all village activities. People like Nat who had made their career outside always came back to help when necessary. Nat said they were all in old days a tribal hunting people and some of this habits still persisted. When a dispute did take place, sometimes they reverted to the old method of settling it by the ‘arivall’ (sickle).

     Old village customs are some times quaint. Some of the old villages had their own method of helping old disabled people to pass away without too much suffering. You might all it mercy killing or euthanasia. The old ,disabled ,vegetable dead persons were put inside the thick walls of the house and sealed up. Sounds terrible to modern ears but they were helping the old to pass away in dignity instead of the indignity of kept alive when they were brain dead.   

     A more pleasant custom related by Nat will have the modern feminists up in arms. This was the custom of the head of the family initiating new daughters in law into the pleasures of sex on the nuptial night. The head of the family enjoyed it. The bridegroom was relieved that this difficult job was done by an experienced hand. The bride was saved from the mauling and assault by an inexperienced bridegroom. Karnavar’s wife happy that the husband was in known territory. A satisfactory situation all round. We tend to forget that social customs in various societies vary a lot and had evolved in that society to meet specific needs at that point of time. And Nat said his father was proud and boasted of his prowess to every one. To be fair every one was happy with this custom.

    The village had cable TV ,radio , and was well connected by rail and road to other places. Being a small place every one knew each other and there was a lot of camaraderie. The maidan in front of the temple provided space for dramas ,music performances and other functions. During the festivals they all got together to organise and enjoy the entertainment. Nothing is complete without a modern version of the Old Roman gladiatorial contests. Each place has its own favourite and Kanakampatti had Jallikattu , the sport of taming a bull bare handed. More of this a little later on.

    Next  day was the last full day of our stay. We went visiting with Nat to his friends and relatives houses. W e were received  graciously and with warm hospitality. Lot of them had the younger generation abroad but the roots were still firmly in Kanakampatti. They were a innovative lot trying out new ideas in farming and other fields. One of them had invited us for a breakfast , which turned out so substantial that it could called a brunch cum dinner.

    Family and village matters were discussed. Serious discussions on new plants for extraction of herbs  for export were in the fore front. Dry farming was discussed. As noon came every one was talking about the Jallikattu which was due to start in few hours. Jallikattu, the sport of taming bulls with bare hands is said to have been practised in Tamil Nadu villages  for a long  time and formed an integral part of the village life. Unlike Spanish bull fighting where the matadors were armed with swords Jallikattu gave a fair chance to the bull as the tamers were unarmed and used bare hands to bring down the bull. It is more humane that way but animal activits have gone to the court to get the sport stopped. Every year youths were injured sometimes fatally.

    Nat’s friends had arranged for a jeep to take us to the fields were the Jallikattu was held. At the venue they had arranged for a big lorry stationed art a strategic place from which to watch the Jallikattu. We were told that there would be a  huge crowd of spectators from Kankampatti and nearby villages. So we set off in the jeep and arrived at the venue and this was what we saw.

Ladies special

  

     The place was jam packed with people and lorries as you can seee from above pictures. We went climbed our lorry  . We were alright for some tome and then people  jumped into our lorry and soon we were squeezed against the railings. We lost our privileged positions and had to hang on. There was a red haze in the air from the dust. 

At one end there was closed narrow entrance through which the bulls were let in. On either side lorries were lined up for spectators to stand and watch. The picture below gives you the view of the entrance.

      

     The bull is let through gap and waiting for it are the young bull catchers. The whole idea of the sport is for the youth to wrestle bare handed and bring down the bull . There was excitement in the air and every was on toes looking at the gap for the bulls to be let out.We were just managing to hold on . The ladies in the ladies specials were screeching their heads off. The situation was like Sachin getting ready to face Warne. Then a hush as there was movement near the gap. Then a roar as the bull is let out. Shouts and in a few moments a howl of dismay ad the bull did a hundred  yard dash  and  got away before the bull catchers could put the act together. There was angry murmurs from the crowd and a lot shouted advice. We were pushed against the lorry railings and side wise on both sides and wondering how long  we will last before our ribs cracked! From then on there was the expected battle of with between the bulls and the bull catchers. Some of the bulls attempted a frontal attack on the catchers and got away while others were wrestled down to the delight of the crowd. A few of the catchers had to retire hurt but none were seriously injured that day. The crowd were excited and were shouting themselves hoarse encouraging the catchers. There was a red mist of dust in the air. We were crushed in the lorry as people behind surged forward. Some of the bulls were touch artists like the cricketer  Lakshman prancing and leading the catchers on dance for a long time before being brought down. We left before the show was over as we were exhausted and breathless by the pushing .The picts below gives you idea of the excitement which words cannot describe. We were told that the bulls were sometimes  given toddy and that the catchers also fortified themselves before the game. 

 The touch artist

Got him

    Huffing and puffing,breathless, sneezing away ,eyes blood red and bodies from head to toe covered in a patina of red dust we scambled down the lorry, and made our way to our heep and drove home in a daze. We were welcomed with loud laughs by the ladies well attired and looking fresh. They were watching the show live on TV. The marvels of modern age transposed to the village. 

     After a cleansing cold bath we sat down to have the last chat with Nat’s friends over the inevitable whisky.Nat opened his bag to take out the last bottles of the nectar - a bottle of Blue label and a bottle of Black label. Our visitors pitched for the 

Black label saying that there was nothing to beat it. There was heated discussion on why the Brits insisted on calling the best Black. There was discussion on the terrorist attack in England which took place a few days back. Nat said they we could help them in the investigation but they will not take the help of a former colony. The fact that Uttara was teaching the Brits was an indication of how far they had gone down!

Fortunately they had not lost the art of making super whiskies. The long suffering ladies put the food on the table and went to bed. We went on long into night and the only thing I remember is that the Blue label was outstanding.

   The next morning we bid an early goodbye to our hosts  and had a silent sleepy journey back to Madras. The memories of the village life and unforgettable Jallikattu will always be with us to remind us how much we miss by staying in cities. 

Palani Hills

Comments

[Ambika]

Anyone asked the bride her opinion?

[Raji]

A very nice account of the lifestyle of a village with vibrant pictures.

@ Ambika - did anyone ask the bull's opinion?

[Raji]

The pictures are really excellent.

[Sekar]

Very evocative and nicely done. Great pictures as well. Thanks for sharing!

[Styles P]

Loved this!! Beautiful narrative and pictures. Jallikattu sounds crazy! And I highly disapprove of that terrible custom with women!!

[Ambika]

Agree Raji, that too.

[Kamini]

Terrific - bravo, Appa!

[Vijay]

Fascinating!

I suspect the whisky tasted considerably better on account of all the dust you all had inhaled.

[shyam]

Nice photos, Mr R!

Re that weird custom you mentioned, I can only be thankful that it is no longer practised. Can't begin to imagine a more unpleasant experience for a new bride! And what about the feelings of the wife of the head of the family? No way she'd EVER like any of her daughters-in-law! :)

[Juicy Couture Bags]

“I love San Juan Capistrano, our lifestyle, the people, the city’s small town atmosphere. Both my wife Chris and I are active in our community every day.”

[true religion outlet]

Led by Boogsie, the three-time panorama champions compete in most of the national steelband competitions throughout the year and are also involved in many shows, entertaining the public of Trinidad and Tobago.

Although Boogsie enters his band to compete in the many competitions, his vision does not involve just winning these competitions. A trophy and prize money are attractive, but what brings true satisfaction to him and the band members is the joy expressed by all followers and supporters of the band and the artform. Even when Phase II comes second or third in a competition, the members all take solace in the fact that the crowd truly enjoyed the music. With thunderous applause and deafening cheers, fans have time and time again expsadfresed their gratitude to the band for bringing them something original and exciting with every new song.

[nallasivam]

sugavaasigala irrupeenga pola irukke!!! umm! pallu irukkavan pakkoda thingaraan.... enjoy...